New Zealand Wine Notes — 12/12/2007

< Show all Wine Notes

Over the past twenty years New Zealand wines have enjoyed a meteoric rise. In the 1980’s New Zealand was famous for one thing, producing awesome rugby players, but in the mid 80’s this changed as a wave of Sauvignon Blanc wines broke onto the English market. Wineries such as Montana and Hunter’s started producing a style of Sauvignon Blanc that was radically different to anything English wine drinkers had tasted before. Like most overnight successes, this revolution was the result of years of hard work.

In fact the New Zealand wine industry dates back almost two hundred years. The first vines were planted by missionaries in 1819. With no readily available export market, and a domestic clientelle unfamiliar with wine drinking, the industry remained of minority interest until the mid 1980’s. New Zealand grape growers and winemakers have been subject to all the problems that have afflicted wine producers around the world. Oidiuum, Phylloxera, Prohibition and the great Depression of the 1930’s all took their toll on the nascent wine industry in New Zealand. These problems were compounded by the fact that, as a virtually subsistent industry, growers chose to plant first American, and then hybrid grape varieties. These had the advantages that they were easy to grow, and they were prolific producers. Unfortunately, they also suffered from the disadvantage that they produced execrable wines. As late as the mid 1960’s the majority of plantings were of the American Vitis Lambrusca variety called Isabella known locally as Albany Surprise.

The 1970’s saw the development of a new atitude towards winemaking. A young generation of winemakers, who had trained and worked abroad, saw the possibilities offered by the increasing fashionability of wine. Over the last twenty years their commitment to excellence has seen a revolution in the fortunes of New Zealand wine, and, despite a few hiccups along the way, the industry now enjoys an enviable reputation on the world market. In world terms, the New Zealand wine industry remains relatively small. There are no huge, bulk producers, as one finds almost anywhere else in the wine world. The strategy for New Zealand winemakers has been to promote wines produced from smaller, largely family owned, domaines, where the emphasis is very much on quality. This has enabled New Zealand wines to outperform the market over the last two decades.

Auckland (Huapai, Kumeu, Waiheke Island)

With a population of 1.5 million people, Auckland is New Zaland’s largest city. The climate here, in the extreme north of the country, is sub-tropical. The warm climate encouraged early settlers to plant vines, and this area is home to some of New Zealand’s oldest wineries. The first vines were planted by missionaries in Northland, in 1819. The initial optimism was largely misplaced, as climatic difficulties such as humidity present problems for would-be grape growers. Viticulture is more viable further south at Auckland, and this area is home to some of the best of the new wave of wineries. Waiheke Island just 30 minutes away from Auckland, across the Hauraki Gulf, is a small appellation, but is of significance as a region for top flight Cabernet Sauvignon.

Despite its proximity to Auckland, Waiheke Island is very different to the mainland both in terms of geology and weather. It lies in the rainshadow of Auckland, and enjoys a drier, sunnier and warmer micro-climate than the mainland. The soil is volcanic and stony. These poor, free-draining soils are important in that they help to control the natural vigour of the vines, something which is a problem in other parts of northern New Zealand. The picturesque location, laid back life style and nearness to Auckland have all contributed to a rapid increase in the number of wineries on Waiheke Island. Over the last decade numerous small, boutique wineries have established themselves on the island. The emphasis is very much on quality, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot remaining of prime importance. Other varities, including Syrah, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have been planted in recent years, but the Bordeaux varietals, including Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, are really the way forward in these prime vineyards.

The area west of Auckland, around the villages of Huapai, Kumeu and Henderson, has been central to the development of the New Zealand wine industry, and is home to some of the country’s best known producers. Part of the attraction in this area was the nearness to Auckland, an obvious market for wine producers. The region does suffer from excessive humidity, which can bring rot problems. However, the warmer climate does mean that in cooler vintages grapes ripen here while other regions may struggle. This does highlight one of the most interesting features of the New Zealand wine industry. The vineyards cover a hugely diverse area, with many marginal climates. As a result viticultural techniques are key to succesful winemaking. By a happy coincidence, or was it foresight, the New Zealand government employed Richard Smart as government viticulturist from 1982 to 1988. Smart is probably the leading expert on matters viticultural, and his theories on canopy management have reshaped vine growing all around the world. His early work was all done in New Zealand, and this has given the country’s winemakers a headstart in what is now largely considered to be the most important area for development in the future.

Gisborne

Situated on the most easterly point of New Zealand’s North Island, the winemakers of Gisborne are proud of the fact that they are the first people to see the sun each morning. In fact the climate is warm and sunny, with lower than average rainfall. The soils consist of alluvial loams over sandy or volcanic sub-soils. It is the country’s fourth largest grape growing region, and one where white grapes predominate. Probably the dominant varietal is Chardonnay, but the plantings are diverse with some excellent Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Riesling, which ranges from bone dry to lusciously sweet.

Gisborne was the region for bulk wine production, with the vast majority of its fruit going into bulk wines for the bag in box market, but since the early 80’s a number of pregressive boutique wineries, such as Millton and Matawhero, have utilised the vineyard techniques propounded by Dick Smart, to lower yields and increase quality. Interestingly, the success at Millton Vineyards has been built on their adherence to biodynamic methods. Biodynamics is a complicated sytem of winemaking whereby all vineyard and winery activities are regulated by the phases of the moon. Despite its mystical element the system does produce some outstanding wines, and James Millton was the first to introduce the practice into the New Zealand wine industry. The result has been a selection of top quality wines that have enjoyed tremendous success in comparative tastings both at home and abroad.

Hawke’s Bay

South of Gisborne lies Hawke’s Bay, which has long been considered one of New Zealand’s most important viticultural regions. Wines have been produced here for over 150 years. The area has a number of different soil types, and enjoys a warm, sunny temperate climate. This makes it suitable for a wide variety of grape types. In the 1960’s the region was home to some of the country’s largest wineries. They grew huge quantities of Muller-Thurgau for the production of bulk wines. Even then the region was producing some truly excellent Cabernet Sauvignons. The reputation for top flight reds has grown during the inervening years, and plantings are dominated by Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay. As the region grows in confidence some producers are experimenting with Italian varietals, and even the American Zinfandel has been spotted in the area.

Martinborough

Twenty five years ago the town of Martinborough, north east of Wellington, was largely ignored. The locals made their living from raising cattle and sheep, and few residents from the New Zealand capital saw any reason to visit this backwater. How things have changed in the intervening quarter of a century! Today, Martinborough is a much respected vineyard area. The reason for its meteoric rise to prominence lies with the success it has enjoyed with one grape variety – Pinot Noir.

While Cabernet Sauvinon and Chardonnay have successfully emigrated to all parts of the vinous globe, Pinot Noir appears to become incredibly homesick outside its native Burgundy. The search for venues sympathetic to this most difficult of grapes has taken on almost grail-like proportions for winemakers all over the world. The cool climate and free-draining soils of Martinborough are well suited to Pinot and it thrives here, producing supple, silky wines that would not look out of place in Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Vines were in fact planted in the region in 1883, but these were grubbed up in 1905, when the prohibitionist movement was at its peak. Vines didn’t reappear until the late 70’s, when a report was published showing the climatic similarities to Burgundy. Since then the region has gone from strength to strength, and remains one of a handful of regions in the world capable of producing consistently good Pinot Noir.

Marlborough

New Zealand’s largest wine producing region is also the most important, in that it was Sauvignon Blanc from this area which brought New Zealand to the attention of the wine world. Free-draining alluvial soils and a cool climate here produce pungent Sauvignon Blanc, with aggressive herbaceous character and a purity of fruit seldom found elsewhere. Brands such as Cloudy Bay very rapidly established global reputations, and commanded prices comparable to wines from the classic regions of Europe. This was the success story of the 1980’s and defined the winestyle throughout the world for the next generation. The region does have its problems, spring frosts can reduce the crop, and the region can be so dry that irrigation is necessary, especially with young vines. However, the problems are nothing compared with the outstanding attributes of the region’s wines. Its reputation may have been built on the back of the Sauvignon Blanc revolution, but other varietals have thrived here over the past twenty years. Riesling, another cool-climate varietal produces excellent wines with the same originality and intensity of flavour. More recently Pinot Noir has performed well, the climate here being not dissimilar to that of Martinborough further north.

The cool climate is also conducive to the production of sparkling wines, and the region has now established a reputation as a producer of premium sparkling wines. Again Cloudy Bay led the way, in terms of marketing and international cachet, with their Pelorus brand. But others, such as Cellier le Brun, Hunter’s and Champagne Deutz have helped to underline that sparkling wine could represent yet another strength for the region in years to come.

Canterbury

The vineyards of Canterbury are spread around the countryside surrounding Christchurch. Vines were brought to the region by French settlers in the 1840’s, but these vineyards disappeared over the ensuing century, and winemaking didn’t reappear until the 1970’s. Being so far south, the climate here is distinctly marginal. However, cool-climate varietals, such as Pinot Noir and Riesling can produce interesting wines here. The ubiquitous Chardonnay can also do well, and the region has potential with these varietals, whether made into table wines or transformed into sparkling wine.

Wine is produced throughout the whole length of New Zealand, from North Auckland, on the North Island, to Otago, on South Island. This represents a huge north-south geographical spread, and this results in considerable diversity in the wine styles produced. That fact, coupled with the outstanding beauty of the country, makes New Zealand a fascinating and rewarding place to explore.

By Andrew Williams

See all tours to New Zealand

© Arblaster and Clarke Wine Tours. All rights reserved. These notes may not be copied in whole or in part without express permission.