Bordeaux - Chateaux Meyre barrels

Bordeaux - Chateaux Meyre barrels

Chateau Suduiraut

Chateau Suduiraut

Château Beychevelle

Château Beychevelle

Château Franc-Mayne

Château Franc-Mayne

Château Latour in the Autumn

Château Latour in the Autumn

Bordeaux Vineyard Walk

10 - 16 September 2012

Walk with us through the greatest vineyards in the world just as the exciting preparations for the harvest are underway. Our unique Bordeaux vineyard walk (which we first offered over 12 years ago) gives you a rare insight behind the scenes and deep into the countryside of this stellar wine region rarely seen by those rushing by with their cameras in coaches and cars! You’ll stay throughout the trip in great comfort, at fully working winery chateaux (not just chateaux-hotels) in Sauternes, St Emilion and Margaux – adding further to the special experience of this walk which has been totally created, designed and walked out personally for you by the A&C team.

Walking through the heart of the vineyards, we see the differences in ‘terroir’ between the communes, the varied viticultural practices and the visual differences between the grape varieties used in the Bordeaux blends. This is a unique way to discover this classic wine area; which is often pre-conceived by many to be flat and dull. However, much of the countryside that we will walk through is surprisingly untouched and rural in a way that you don’t expect to find just beyond the manicured vineyards of the illustrious chateaux. You’ll walk through the rolling countryside of the Entre-Deux-Mers and the “right bank” around St. Emilion, the Fronsacs, and the Côtes de Bourg and Blaye. The Medoc is indeed flat, it is of course a great alluvial plain, but there is the compensation that this low-lying land is lined with the magnificent architecture and the romance of world famous chateaux.

Our first base is a very charming wine chateau sitting on a gentle hill immediately above the surprisingly low-key hamlet of Sauternes. Sitting in a small hollow, the village still has a washhouse on the stream that runs through it next to the ancient church. Other than that it is comprised of little more than a cluster of houses and a few simple auberges that are often shut!

We’ll meet you in the morning at Bordeaux airport and from here start with a chateau visit in the Graves and a light lunch. We’ll then drive on to begin our Bordeaux vineyard walking on our first afternoon starting in the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, which has views to the south of the Garonne river and in the region that it encircles, Loupiac. Here, we’ll taste wonderful sweet wines at Château Loupiac-Gaudiet, where the wines are matured in bottle for at least two years before being released. The chateau is situated amongst its vineyards on clay-limestone hills with some 40-year-old vines. If the harvest has not yet begun and the conditions are right, we may well see first hand the development of Botrytis cinerea on the grapes. This evening we’ll have dinner together at our private wine chateau, tasting their Grand Cru Classé Sauternes, red Graves and Bordeaux Blanc wines over supper.

Next day we explore the twin appellations of Sauternes and Barsac on the left bank of the Garonne. We start our walk from Barsac, the oldest wine village in the region, with Roman remains. It is here and in the neighbouring appellation of Sauternes that the secret of the sweet wines of Bordeaux unfurls each autumn, due to its special micro-climate – the cold morning mists lying over the vineyards that encourage the growth of the fungus Botrytis causing ‘noble rot’ in the grapes, turning their juices into concentrated syrup. Our first visit today is to an outperforming estate in Barsac.

We continue our walk, crossing the Ciron River into Sauternes – which of course is known for producing the world’s most iconic sweet wine. After a rustic picnic lunch in a vineyard, we stop for a tasting at Château Suduiraut, 1er Cru Classé. This beautiful chateau adjoins the illustrious Château d’Yquem vineyards and has performed extremely well in recent vintages. The gardens here were designed by Le Nôtre who also designed the gardens at Versailles and have recently been replanted according to the original designs. Our walk today will also take us through the vineyards of the great Château d’Yquem and finally back to our beautiful chateau accommodation.

Next day, we check out and our mini coach will then take us to the Entre-Deux-Mers region. We will walk in the rolling valleys around the historic town of Rauzan, home to a beautiful 12th century castle, the Château de Duras and to one of the largest wine co-operatives in Europe. We will visit our selection of top performing chateau for a tasting.

We’ll cross the river past Castillon-La-Bataille, (the site of the fateful battle where the English lost the Bordeaux region to the French, in 1453). Formerly a fortified town with a large fortress, today only a few remains of the town walls can be seen near the Porte de Fer, on the south side by the river. We lunch at a picnic spot on the banks of the River Dordogne. One of the prettiest but longest sections of the walk then takes us past the imposing Château Laroque, which was the German headquarters during the occupation. We hope to visit Château Troplong-Mondot, St Emilion 1er Grand Cru classé B, one of the largest chateaux in the Saint Emilion appellation, before we climb up to the St Emilion plateau where we’ll be rewarded with superb views of the surrounding area.

From this visit it is only a short stroll into the walled town of St. Emilion and then down to our chateau base, which is a respected St Emilion Grand Cru Classé. This will be our base for the next two nights. St Emilion is a very picturesque medieval hilltop town, which is a maze of steep cobbled streets and ancient buildings, undoubtedly the loveliest town in the region. The two dominant monuments are the hilltop spire and the keep, both commanding good views over the rooftops. Probably the most famous curiosity in St Emilion is the Monolithic church, which is the largest underground church in Europe and was hewn out of a solid limestone cliff between the 8th and 12th century. Apart form the numerous wine shops in the village (where you can often taste some wines too) you must try the other local speciality, macaroons. We’ll dine this evening at our chateau to taste their wines and those of their two partner chateaux.

From our private chateau base in St. Emilion we are able to cover the area of great vineyards between the town and Pomerol, a relatively small appellation with world-famous red wines. Compared with other Bordeaux wines, Pomerols are more intense, richer and charming owing to the complexity of the soils. There is no classification here, but Château Pétrus is universally recognised as “hors classe”, and subsequently one of the most expensive wines in the world. We walk past this iconic château this morning before visiting Château Bon Pasteur or one of their other excellent neighbours.

This afternoon our walk takes us north into the St Emilion “satellites” including Montagne-de-St. Emilion with its delightfully untouched countryside. We’ll stop for lunch at a favourite café of ours perched on the hilltop, where we’ll tuck into a “plat du jour”. We continue our walk to St Georges-de-St Emilion culminating in a visit and tasting at Château St. Georges, probably one of the most beautiful châteaux outside the Médoc, owned by M Pétrus Desbois. The evening is free in St. Emilion for you to make your own choice of restaurant or to order a platter of cheese or charcuterie at our chateau accommodation.

Next morning we check out and our mini-coach will take us to the start of the next walk. Here we start in the heart of the vineyards in another wonderfully rural and relatively unexplored area of countryside, the Côtes de Bourg and the Premières Côtes de Blaye. The town of Bourg is set on the northern bank of the Dordogne River, just before it joins the Garonne to form the Gironde Estuary. Most of the wines from the Côtes de Bourg and the Premières Côtes de Blaye are red, and very agreeable. Our visit this morning is likely to be at Château Falfas, in the appellation of Bourg, which was acquired by its present owners; John Cochran and his French wife, Monique in 1988. Falfas is one of the few truly organic producers in the region. There will be free time to explore the riverside town of Blaye at lunchtime, before crossing the Gironde on the ferry to the Médoc. The Médoc lies to the northwest of Bordeaux and is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde. The area is divided into two major appellations – the Bas-Médoc and the Haut-Médoc. The latter is located in the south and contains the highly rated appellations of St. Estèphe, Pauillac, St. Julien-Beychevelle, Margaux, Listrac and Moulis-en-Médoc.

This afternoon we’ll stroll in the vineyards of Margaux, walking past many of the great names – the illustrious Château Margaux itself with its elegant plane-tree lined avenue, and classic architecture. We’ll also see Châteaux Palmer, Malescot-St-Exupery, Rauzan Ségla and Kirwan.

We check in this afternoon to our next beautiful wine chateau accommodation in the illustrious commune of Margaux. This pretty wine hamlet has several restaurants (in addition to some of the world’s most famous chateaux scattered liberally around!). Dinner tonight will be at Château Lascombes. The chateau has 84 acres of vineyards in Margaux and under the new management and investment that it saw in 2001, there are great plans to re-establish Lascombes as one of the leading châteaux of its rank, by concentrating on the vineyards’ geology; planting Merlot in more suitable sites; increasing the planting densities and reducing yields.

Our walking next day will start in St Estèphe, from here we’ll continue past the oriental turrets of Château Cos d’Estournel, before continuing towards Pauillac with a brief look at the gardens of Château Lafite-Rothschild en route. Our walk then takes us through the park of Château Mouton-Rothschild and near the famous tower of Château Latour. Overlooking the Gironde estuary, we will walk between the two Pichon Longuevilles; Château Comtesse de Lalande first and then to Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, with its fairy tale features and mirror lake where we will be invited to lunch. From here we cross into St. Julien, passing the dominant wall surrounding the Clos of Leoville-Las-Cases. Our walk finishes in the lovely gardens of Château Beychevelle, stretching down to the River where we’ll hear the story of how the chateau is reputed to have got its name and of course taste the wines.

On the final morning our guide will take us through the parts of Margaux that we haven’t yet explored and we will enjoy a light lunch together to end the tour. We will then return to Bordeaux and you can either be dropped off in time for the evening flight, or we’ll take you into Bordeaux so that you can stay on for a few days if you wish to explore this wonderful city.